In 1985 the same catalog was reprinted a second time in cooperation with A.B.A.N.A. In 1984 the Mid-West Tool Collectors reprinted the 1915 Sears, Roebuck and Co., Tools Machinery Blacksmith's Supplies catalogue. Reprints of catalogs such as old Sears and Roebucks are also a good source of anvil data. This catalog also included a variety Blacksmith's hand tools and forges. "The face is made from one piece of high grade tool steel, accurately ground and tempered. Industrial Supply Corp., Richmond, VA, 1955 catalog, page 172 lists Fisher "Eagle" Anvils from 50 to 700 pounds, Old industrial catalogs will often include photos and specs of the anvils they carried. The most beautifully illustrated book about Blacksmithing that I've ever seen. Then try Eric Sloane's A Museum of Early American Tools, pp.90-93 Early, Colonial, Stake, Nailers.Īnd for a classic of custom design see Otto Schmirler's Start with Bealer's classic The Art of Blacksmithing, p.65 Medieval Anvils, p.66 The London Anvil and nomenclature, p.68 A Liêges anvil. Today there are still a number of manufactures making anvils but in small quantities and there are still organizations and individuals that make anvils to suit themselves.Īny book on blacksmithing will give the shape and basic nomenclature. Other than this brief period anvils were made in a great variety. Most anvils were made in the London pattern or it's modification the American pattern (narrower waist, mass moved into horn and heal). Measure the distance from the fulcrum to where you stand.ĭivide that number by the distance from the fulcrum to the center mass of the anvil.Īnvil weight times anvil distance equals your weight times your distance.Īnvil weight equals your weight times your distance divided by anvil distance.First, one should recognize there is no "standard" anvil.ĭuring the early part of the twentieth century, shortly before the automobile and other technical advances put the American Blacksmith out of business, anvils were made in great quantity and under great competition. Move the fulcrum until the board balances. IF the anvil rises, then you are heavier than the anvil.
IF the board does not move the anvil is heavier than you. (think teeter totter or child's balance beam) Put a fulcrum in the middle of the board. Put one scale under each end of the board. Take two bathroom (or other) scales and a board. Anyone ever seen this? Pics would help I know. And, instead of running straight across the anvil at a perfect 90, it has a 45 in the middle of it, if you get what I mean. If it wasn't attached to the stump, I might just barely be able to take some steps with it, although I don't think I could lift it off the ground into a carrying position.Īlso, this anvil has another peculiar feature: the step has a huge drop down - about an inch and a half. I'm a 6 foot 4, 210 pound guy, who can lift quite a lot. It's on a stump, and I can lift it, just, but not move with it. Conservatively I'm going to say 50 pounds more, but I really think this thing might be quite a bit more. I know this thing is quite a bit bigger than my 150 pound Mousehole and Peter Wright. I thought about trying to balance it on a lever or some such non sense, but that seems tricky and not incredibly accurate. The only other mark I can find on it is a blob of some sort on the outside of one of the feet, but it is unrecognizable. I'll try to get pictures up later, but for now, it has FISHER indented on one foot, some makers marks like LI III, and 4 dots stamped in the front of another foot. This weekend I picked up a Fisher anvil, but I can't for the life of me find any weight markings on it. I'd rather avoid just buying a big scale of some sort. stupid question here, but does anyone have a clever trick for weighing an anvil too large for a bathroom scale? preferably a cheap method.
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